After a shaky start that crowded out the smoked items on the menu with too many sides and impenetrable sandwich rolls, Meat Smith is finally taken seriously for what it came to do: cook meat well. Inside those hulking fog lockers in the open kitchen, the meat, uhh, smiths Andrew Baldus and Alysia Chan have added more cuts of chicken, pork and beef, crusted with powdered herbs and spices or house-stirred barbecue sauces. The 365-day grain-fed Angus brisket ($28/180g) is the tender must-try, and we’re also partial to the rack of paprika-spiked pork spare ribs ($25) served with cucumber and carrot pickles. Because so much of barbecue fare is about dining in a raucous group, order a platter that comes with a spread of the different meats on offer ($95/two, $160/three to four, $270/four to six diners), or call two days ahead to reserve a suckling pig and three sides ($300) that can feed a tribe of eight.
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